With this article, I’m taking a step back in time - when I first became captivated by this one-of-a-kind art form.
It all happened thanks to some fluffy little angels, peacefully sleeping on even fluffier clouds, who stole my heart from the window display of a quaint art boutique tucked into the cozy central streets of Sofia. I couldn’t get them out of my mind until I discovered how they were made.
The shop assistant explained that they were crafted by felting wool with a needle. What she forgot to mention, however, was that the needle is special—it has barbs. So, just imagine my comical attempts to make something using an ordinary sewing needle.
Fortunately, if you read this article, you won’t have to go through the same struggles I did.
To understand needle felting, it’s good to first get familiar with the felting process. During this process, wool fibers are moved back and forth until they lock tightly together.
The type of needle you use is very important. It has small barbs facing in one direction. When you poke, they push the fibers inward but not back out. This binds the fibers together until the connection becomes very strong. The more you poke, the more the fibers interlock, slowly turning the wool into a firm felted piece.
Since you have to repeatedly stab the wool, you’ll need a foam pad underneath to prevent the needle from breaking and to provide a stable working surface. Keep in mind that felting needles are quite delicate and can break easily if used improperly. During repetitive motion, the needle should be inserted at the same angle each time, without twisting or bending. If the needle doesn’t go in smoothly, do not force it.
Be very careful, as early attempts often come with accidental pokes. Keep in mind that felting needles are very sharp, and the barbs make poking even more unpleasant.
When you hold the needle upright at a 90° angle, you’re driving the fibers deep for strength and stability. This is usually how the rough shape begins. From there, you can decide whether to make your piece soft and airy or dense and compact. Gradually, you start angling the needle to 45° to cross-bind the fibers and sculpt finer details. Slowly, a smooth surface forms. Finally, using a sharper angle, you tuck in stray fibers to refine the final shape.
Different stages require different types of needles. Keep in mind, they do wear out. If you notice it’s taking longer than usual to felt, it may be time to replace your needle.
TYPES OF FELTING NEEDLES
STAR FELTING NEEDLE – WITH BARBS ON FOUR SIDES
Size 36 – Felts quickly and densely. Great for attaching parts and can be used with coarse wool.
Size 38 – Similar to size 36, but also suitable for finer work and softer wool. One of the most versatile felting needles.
TWISTED FELTING NEEDLE – BARBS SPIRAL AROUND THE NEEDLE
Sizes 38 and 40 – This needle felts efficiently and creates a clean surface without holes, unlike standard needles if not smoothed with an angled finish.
REVERSE FELTING NEEDLE
This needle’s barbs face backward, so instead of pushing fibers in, it pulls them out. It’s used to create a fluffy, fur-like surface on a well-felted figure.
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